Every ratty needs: Food: Delicious and nutritious...don't just feed them the same old pellets every day...give them treats too! Home: Comfy nests to sleep in; Hammocks to daydream in Friends: Ratties to snuggle with; A human to play with Freedom: Free playtime to explore and exercise Variety: Rats are highly intelligent creatures and thrive on stimulation. Put some excitement in their day and take your ratty on outings with you. Vary their diet so they always have something interesting and new to try. Make up new toys out of something you find around the house i.e. milk cartons etc. Rats are generally very hardy and robust creatures, and with proper care will experience very little illness. Ensuring all your ratty's needs are catered for will give them the best quality of life possible:).

Rats make great pets for children, teens and adults alike!

Feeding:

Well it seems that our dear friends the rat will eat anything! That doesn't mean that we should let them have whatever they want! Of course they will go berserk when they smell McDonald's in the house! They're a bit like kids...and we have to be good ratty-parents and feed them good healthy food. Of course the occasional treat is fine, in moderation.

The bulk of a ratty's diet should be grain and fresh foods such as vegetables and fruit. These can be fed raw and cooked according to ratty preference. Anything not suiting his or her majesty will be duly ignored, or pinged out of the cage with glee...so don't worry-they will let you know!

We feed our rats a basic mixture of grain horse food such as "Total" or "Complete-O" and add some "GR2" rat and mouse pellets (or lab blocks). This is served daily, and seems to do very well. In addition to this, we feed whatever is going in the household at the time. Any leftover rice, pasta and vegetables get dished up to the ratties, as well as fruit and the odd bit of lettuce etc.

The only true no-no's for feeding is onion (or any onion-type plant such as spring onions, shallots etc), raw potato, rhubarb leaves/stalks and household plants. Meat and cheese should be fed minimally, best kept as a treat. Serving sizes should be around a pea-size per ratty, per couple of days (at the most!). Too much protein makes an itchy rat, with skin problems and may even lose their hair! Ewww indeed.

Junk food..ahh the glorious stuff! How the little monkeys cling to their cage bars with big pleading puppy dog eyes! But be strong! Junk food is very bad news for ratties. Their systems really can't cope with all the chemicals and preservatives. Share your Tim Tams or big Mac with caution...just a little pea-sized snippet for Mr or Miss Fuzzybum!

And of course you know the fresh-water-at-all-times deal. Invest in a dripper-bottle if you can. Water bowls can be easily tipped or used as a splash pool/toilet/bedding storage unit.

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Housing for Rats
There are a few issues to consider when you decide on a house for your rat. Will your rat's house be kept inside or outside? How many rats will you house together? How often will they have a free run? What other pets do you have? If the cage must kept outside, do you have a secure, draught-proof place (such as a shed) to house it? Will that shed be too hot in summer? How much room does a rat require? Rats need a safe and secure sanctuary that is draught free, animal proof and rat-friendly. They need to have a solid floor (not mesh) and the right type of bedding. You will need ensure they have a cozy and comfortable place to curl up and sleep, and you will also need to provide stimulation in the way of toys/activities for those times when they don't have free run of the house!

Cages
Rat cages can be purchased from pet stores and suppliers, however keep in mind that rats need space, and the amount of time you let them have free run will also reflect on a suitable cage size. Some bird cages make great rat roosts! On average, it is fair to allow at least one half a square metre per rat. Rats love to run about and explore, and do need to stretch their legs and exercise. They are not generally lazy by nature and are primarily nocturnal.

So just because they seem to sleep all day, doesn't mean they can make do with a small cage. Often rabbit hutches and aviaries will be just fine as rat cages, as long as they are made of metal (rats can chew through wood) and the mesh is strong, with small gaps. Rats can squeeze through tiny gaps, and if they can squish their head through...the body will fit through too! Aviaries are great because rats like to climb, and you can fill it with wooden perches and nesting boxes for climbing adventures!

Get Creative!
Homes for your rats don't need to be store-bought. I have many rats, and need large cages, so I find it more economical to make my own, or have my trusty handy-man friend make them up for me. I used to make mine out of discarded furniture. I have seen many excellent rat-homes made out of old wardrobes, tv units and bookcases. As long as the frame is sturdy, and the wood is clean and unpainted (unless its a non-lead based paint you have applied yourself). I found that if the rats have a large cage and ample food, they are not likely to chew through. But that's just my rats! Keep an eye (and an ear!) out for gnawing. I once had a great big double wardrobe that I ripped the back off and replaced with mesh. This sits on its side and I accessed the cage from the doors at the back. This worked great for me because it housed numerous rats and besides being spacious, I filled it with branches and pipes, making it an exciting place for them to live and play.

A friend of ours who has taken some of our rescue rats keeps her rats in roomy bird cages overnight, and then during the day she puts them all into The Playpen - a store-bought cage on wheels designed for ferrets and rabbits. This serves as a place for them to have access to plenty of activities and plenty of room to move! They also come out for cuddles several times per day.

Free Run Time
It isn't fair for ratties to live in their cage all day, every day. So let them out for playtime and a cuddle! Your ratties will love you for it! The bathroom is ideal. Be sure to close the toilet lid and remove anything you don't want chewed, (especially power cables) and place some newspaper on the floor.

Alternatively, have the ratties loose in your lounge or bedroom; wherever you prefer. For all the pet's sake, remove all non-rats from the room, so there are no "accidents." Plus, having time out with just you and your ratties it makes a special time for some quality bonding, fun and games :)

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Bedding and Nesting Materials

Ratties like a cozy spot to curl up in, to get away from the world, to sleep and generally feel safe and secure. They will fashion themselves a "nest" in a corner and fill it with any available materials. It is good to supply a box or some kind of "cubby" for this purpose. PVC pipe will do, as will bird nesting boxes, or even plant pots turned on their side. Nesting materials can be tissue, paper towel, recycled paper, or fabric. I have found it hard to get hold of a good paper-based cage filler, but there are now cat litters available made from recycled paper that are suitable for the job. The rats like to keep their home clean and will appreciate a handful of fresh nesting stuff every day or so. We recommend "Breeder's Choice" paper pellets or "Dr Harry's."

Pocket hammocks are also an excellent idea...these are polar fleece hammocks which hang from the roof of the cage, with little pockets where the rats can snuggle in and hide for a snooze. See The Dapper Rat for hammock sales.

Note: It is best not to give females cloth or any fabric when they are pregnant or have young, as the threads can come loose and wind around the babies limbs and bodies causing nasty injuries and sometimes amputation.

So where to put your cage?
Inside the house is best, or, if the rats must be kept outside, a secure, weather proof shed. Ratties hate drafts, so place the cage away from any gaps or doorways, and ensure there are no places that pets or wild animals (including wild rats!) can sneak in.

Rats are very sensitive to heat. In summer, rats are in danger from overheating, so they need a place to escape, and sleep the day away in cool comfort. Terra cotta pots are especially good as they are a natural insulator and have a cool surface for little summer rats. Alternatively, freeze bottles full of water to make an ice-pack that they can lean against. Beware of heat-stroke in summer.

Feed containers
Feed bowls should be heavy so the rats can't tip them over or fling them about. Pottery and ceramic bowls are ideal. Water is best kept in a "lixit" type bottle, the sort with a ball-bearing straw that is clipped to the side of the cage. These are more hygienic than a bowl of water, as the bowls easily get filled with cage mess. However, ratties love to "wash," so I often supply them with a bowl of water that clips onto the side of the cage, just for their ablutions! All water and feed containers should be thoroughly cleaned daily, and fully sterilized at least once a week. This can be done by soaking bowls etc in a bucket full of hot soapy water, or diluted bleach. Make sure you always rinse the bowls very well and dry before using.

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Health

Rats are generally pretty hardy critters, and have very few major problems health wise. There are not any vaccinations you should get for your rats, and as far as I know there is no cases of diseases transmitted by wild animals such as Calici or Myxomatosis as seen in rabbits.

General maintenance involved regular de-worming by means of a ivomectin-based horse or sheep worming product. We use "Equimec" which is a horse de-worming paste available from stock feed suppliers at around $12-14. This tube contains quite a bit and should last for a while. The dosage for an adult rat is a dab the size of a grain of rice (halve this for youngsters and pups). Apply this to the rat's teeth/mouth with a cotton tip. Alternatively, if you have one rat on his/her own, you can mix the paste in with food such as cream cheese. The paste also simultaneously gets rid of mites, the rat equivalent of fleas. The dose is given fortnightly/monthly, or as required.

Teeth should be checked for over-length or lopsided wearing. Your vet can trim them if they are too long. Regular feeding of uncooked pasta shells can help keep teeth trim. You can clip overgrown toenails using baby nail-clippers. Be careful to avoid the "quick" when clipping; like dogs and cats, rats have a fleshy part inside the claw. If you accidentally cut too far just stem the blood with a tissue and apply 'Betadine'.

How can we tell if a pet rat is unwell?
A sick rat will generally puff up like a hedgehog and sulk in a corner or in bed. They may go off their food and not want to get around very much. Do not confuse this with a sleeping rat or one that puffs up when feeling cold!

Keep an ear our for noisy breathing or snuffling that is continuous. Rats can get a respiratory illness known as Mycoplasma, or "Myco."

Other signs off illness/stress is red "blood-like" mucus or staining around the eye and nose area. This mucus is called Porphyrin and is not blood, but a colored discharge demonstrating that all is not well in rat-city, baby.

Rats can also develop tumors, so check him/her daily for lumps that shouldn't be there. Tumors can be removed surgically, so he sooner you see your vet, the better. Remember that tumors often continue to grow back in the same area, even after removal. lf your rat is an old rat, you may like to discuss other options with your vet.

Other "lumps"can be abscesses are the result of a bite or scratch that has become infected. Basically this will be like a large pimple. If it has a "head" on it, clean with salt water and try to drain the pus gradually. Add 3-4 drops Lavender or Tea Tree essential oil to the salted water if you have it. Abscesses cleaned daily with salted water and followed by an antiseptic cream or lotion (like Betadine) will usually clear up within a few days. I have successfully treated abscesses on rats, rabbits and guinea pigs with this method.

If tending to the abscess is beyond your squeamishness levels, or the abscess shows no improvement within a couple of days, then see your vet for treatment.

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Grooming

Ratties have minimal grooming requirements, really only needing the occasional bath and a nail trim. They are generally fastidious cleaners, licking their hands to wash their faces and ears, and licking their fur like a cat. They also groom each other a lot, which is beneficial for all involved. When your ratty gets older, sometimes they lose the ability to clean themselves, and will require your help, especially if they lose their bladder control.

Ratties can be bathed about once a week, any more than this is unnecessary unless your ratty has gotten *very* dirty or is getting ready for a show.

The best thing to use on ratties for shampooing is baby shampoo or kitten/puppy shampoo. This is gentle on their skin and minimalises irritation. Some people use human shampoo and conditioner on their ratties with good results, but I would steer clear of this, just to be safe. No matter what you decide to use, be sure to rinse them very well and check for any allergic reactions after their bath such as itching or redness. Do not use flea shampoo on ratties. This is very poisonous to them. Mites and fleas can be dealt with in other ways. (See health section for details).

Brushing your ratty is one of those things you "can" do but don't have to. I would, however, recommend it for older rats as they no longer can groom themselves and the stimulation is good for their circulation. Just a soft bristled baby's brush is fine for this.

Nail trimming can be done with some small nail clippers or baby nail clippers. The rats nail has a "quick" which is the pink bit inside the nail. Avoid cutting this, usually you can see this part on clear nails. If not, just trim the sharp end off the nail to blunten the edge.

I tend to tuck the rat's head under my arm and lift up the back feet for nail trimming. For the front feet I sit the rat in my lap and let their front feet rest over my fingers as if they are standing on their hind legs. I then trim the tips of their front nails. It is a little tricky at first, especially if the ratty is squirming and wailing like a banshee...but persevere...it sure is worth it. Get someone to hold your ratty while you do it. Trimming nails makes your ratties a lot easier on your shoulder and neck area!

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Exercise

Rats are mostly active creatures...just because they seem to sleep all day doesn't mean they're lazy! Most of their playtime is done at night while we are asleep! It is very important to supply your ratty with things to keep him/her interested, as they are highly intelligent and curious animals by nature. Lack of stimulation will make them bored and dull...just like a person will in solitary confinement!

Free play time is the most important exercise a ratty can get. Not only do they get to stretch their muscles, but they can explore and play at leisure. We let ours run around the lounge room during free time, and they love to scamper about. If this is not suitable, you can fashion a playpen or romper area for your ratties. Large cardboard boxes are great fun...raid your local supermarket or get a TV box for them. Ratties love to climb as well, so you can fill it with branches and tunnels...get creative!

Sometimes I will put newspaper down on the floor in the bathroom and let them run amok in there...or you can even put some towels in the bathtub for them to romp in.

Remember that ratties will chew anything in their path, so keep electrical cables and anything valuable out of their reach. Also...be sure there are no gaps where they can escape...if they can fit their head through...they will fit their whole body as well! And never, ever leave your other pets (no matter how trusted) or young children unsupervised with a ratty. It only takes a second for an accident to happen.

Playtime is a good time to practice their training...have some treats handy to entice them out of hiding and encourage them to come to you when called. You may use their name, a sound or a clicker. If you practice this...it will work. This is especially handy for times when you will need it..like when they escape their cage or in case of an emergency...you will be glad that you took the time to train them:)

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Rat Toys

Depending on what size cage you have, you may like to put some toys and activities in your ratties cage. Small cardboard boxes, empty tissue boxes and plastic containers can make fun cubby-houses. Bits of old rope can be tied across the cage for climbing on, or hung from the roof.

'Wodent wheels' are the safe alternative to standard mouse wheels which have also earned the apt nickname 'tail-breakers.' I find that my rats have never used the wheels anyway, but each rat is different.

Hammocks and pockets made out of old t-shirts and towels are great fun to climb in and rats love to sleep in them too! Toys can be made out of practically anything you find lying about. Put a tasty treat inside a little box (like an empty lolly box) and watch them sniff out the prize...they will enjoy the challenge. Fill an empty water or juice bottle with treats (such as cereal or nuts) and let the rats try to figure out how to get the treats out!

Nuts in their shells are good toys too...peanuts and walnuts make good munchy treats and help wear down those fast-growing teeth! Pasta and popcorn (unsalted) can be strung onto cotton thread and hung from the ceiling....be sure to supervise this game to avoid entanglement though, and remove the string when done.

Fun games for summer can be pea-bobbing...put some frozen peas into a little water bowl for the ratties to fish out for a fun and cooling treat!

All these games and playthings will help keep your ratty entertained and stimulated...resulting in a happy ratty who is less prone to boredom and lethargy.

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Entertainment

Do rats really need to be entertained? Yes! because of their high intelligence, rats are 'thinkers' and need mental and physical stimulation. Part of this is free playtime out of their cage, however there will be times when you can't be there for them, and rats are also most active at night, when we are asleep.

Firstly, the best kind of fun for a rat is another rat. No matter how much time you spend playing with them and cuddling, rats -like all animals- need the company of other animals. They need the social interaction, the play and also the comforting warmth of another rat body to curl up with when sleeping.

Then there are toys. All kinds of goodies can be purchased for ratties to play with. Pet stores now offer a range of ratty chews, toys and accessories to keep your rat interested. Rat hammocks are all the rage at the moment...rats love the comfort of a soft fabric sling. There are also fabulous "Foofferdomes" and "Foofertubes" available from Robyn of Dapper Rats...these are sumptuous soft fabric igloos for sleep and playtime. My friend Ayscvha also makes some great products and you can view them on this website.

Besides store bought chewing blocks and toys, here are some inexpensive ideas to make your ratty's house interesting. Rats love to climb, so I fill the cage with tree branches and sticks for them to climb and run along. Bird nesting boxes make great cubby houses, as well as pvc pipes. You can add rocks, logs, shells...anything really. The rats love to explore new things and will love to climb over and investigate. Just don't get too carried away and clutter the cage up! I like to make my cages have a "natural environment" feel, with soil, rocks and even the odd "cave" made out of bricks. (Be sure to set the structures up securely!)

Biscuit and cereal boxes make exciting-smelling hideouts...encourage your ratties to explore by leaving a crumb trail of something yummy.

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Ratty Behaviour

So what do ratties do with their day besides eat and sleep? Well I like to say that rats are 24 hour pets...whether you are an early riser or strictly a night person, your ratties will be ready for play when you are!

When you are not playing with them, they will be recharging their batteries by snoozing, or laying about with other ratties in a fuzzy heap. They will pass the day play-wrestling, grooming and bathing themselves. Other activities include chewing, stashing food and re-arranging the nest.

Seeming as they spend a lot of time in their enclosure, it is important that their home is spacious, adequately ventilated and offers something for the ratty housemates to do, such as toys and chewables. Otherwise, you may find the chewing urge turns to the cage, hammocks and food bowls.

Interaction with other ratties often involves "power-grooming," which means pinning down the "victim" for a furious cleaning. This seems to be almost violent in action, sometimes with much protest from the pinned ratty on the receiving end! I believe it is a rather dominant action, perhaps an assertion of authority. Often this is little more than rough play between cage mates/siblings.

Fighting between rats happens in both males and females; lesser in females unless re-sorting the pecking order. Males will often begin to brawl around 5-6 months of age, when they begin to hit sexual maturity. Basically: it's puberty. When the hormones hit, suddenly their egos skyrocket, and they begin to consider themselves pretty darn hot, baby. This ego trip involves plenty of strutting about, and the occasional bullying of smaller/younger ratties. Eventually, they will attempt to work their way up the "pecking order" ladder, to see how far they can get. Often, this scuffling will sort itself out, but do keep an eye on them to ensure no serious injuries are done.

Females will hit sexual maturity around the same age, and this means coming into "heat" or "season". This is noticeable by quick, darting movements around the cage. Also noticeable is a "buzzing" like a blowfly, ear-flapping (yes! I am serious!) and a funny little crouching-skipping movement. Females may mount each other and cause scuffles during this time. There really isn't anything you can do except ensure they get a LOT of free exercise time!

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Common Questions

Do they carry diseases?
Domestic rats don't carry diseases. The idea that they do, results from hysteria about the plague and sewer rats. The plague (now extremely rare) was actually transmitted by fleas which rode on animals be it rat, cat, dog or human. Any wild or feral animal is likely to carry disease, but domestic rats are different from wild rats in that they have been selectively bred for temperament and health where possible. In fact, rats can catch a cold from humans. If your pet rat is healthy and treated for parasites regularly, there should be no problems with his/her health.

Do they bite?
Rats rarely bite for no reason. We must remember that rats cannot see as well as we humans can, and so will go by smell and sound alone. If I have been handling food a rat may easily mistake my fingers for food. The other times rats will bite is if they haven't been handled much, and may bite due to fear. Mother rats will sometimes be protective of their young, but this varies between rats. Never use your hands to break up males fighting; again this is a risk of being bitten by mistake.

Do they smell?
Rats generally don't have an odour unless their cage is dirty or not cleaned properly. It also depends a lot on their diet; rats fed strong smelling foods may develop an odour in urine. This tends be a sweetish smell, almost like an overripe apple. I tend to notice this more in the males cage than the females...even though they are fed the same diet.

Is it ok to pick rats up by the tail?
No, it is not good to do this. The only time I grab a rat by the tail is by accident, usually a baby rat to stop it jumping from my fingers as I hold it the first time! For an adult rat it would be painful, as well as the tail may actually detach from the bone and cause horrific injury. Rats also like to feel secure, so place one hand around the rat and one under when picking up. Then hold close to your body or place his/her belly on your t-shirt (or shoulder) so they can grip on. Another alternative is a comfy sock...rats love a snuggly sock or beanie.

Do rats pee and poo all over you when you hold them?
This is a sign of nervousness (especially in youngsters), and usually stops as they mature and become more accustomed to you. My adults hardly ever do, and will use a litter tray when available. This is great for free range times!

Can I put them with other animals?
No. Rats are purely for rat company. They are considered a predatory animal...so they won't do well with other rodents (guinea pigs etc). Rats will most times attack and attempt to kill other species, the same as a dog might.

Is it best to get one or two rats?
Rats are social animals...and need other ratties for company. Having two rats won't interfere with the bonding process at all...you will have double the whisker kisses!

What is best...male or female?
Some people swear by males...others by females. I have cuddlebuckets and aloof ones in both sexes! A lot of people have said to me their males are slightly more sooky than the females who can be stand-offish at times. I find that the females are more active, and thus are easier to train to do tricks etc. It really does vary.

How long do they live?
On average, rats live for 2- 21/2 years. This can vary...some live upwards of 3 years and 4 years is considered lucky indeed!

What age should I separate males and females?
Rats can *apparently* become pregnant as young as 5 weeks. I have yet to see this happen. If concerned about this I would recommend that from 4 weeks old onwards, (only when sure the babies are eating and drinking separately from mum) remove mum from cage for short periods of time, and separate males and females babies during the day; gradually extending until 5 weeks when you should separate males and females permanently. By 6 weeks the ratlets are ready to adopt to their new homes.

Will two males fight?
This varies. If you wish to have two male rats, try and get them from the same source while they are young. Otherwise, introduce a youngster to the adult rat gradually. Even littermates sometimes squabble...and some don't get along at all! But mostly they enjoy each other's company. My four males live happily together and welcome new playmates that I introduce to them for socializing.

Why are rats so great?
Rats are interesting pets. They are curious and generally confident, so are happy to learn tricks and interact with their people. They are ideal for people who don't have the time or finances for a dog, yet enjoy animals and seek a fun pet. Owning rats is rewarding and often surprising!

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First Aid

Whenever I get a scratch or a rare bite, (or even scratch myself on wire etc) I always rinse the spot and dab some pure Lavender essential oil on the skin around the cut. Also a splash of iodine like 'Betadine' doesn't hurt, and it is safe for ratties even if they lick it off. I use ointment, but the liquid is just as good. Another excellent natural product is 'Lucas Pawpaw ointment' which is available from most chemists and some supermarkets. It is in a bright red jar and a small tube is around $4.00. This is also safe in case ratty licks it off. Never use Dettol, as it is pine based and very toxic.

A few years ago I did a short course on Aroma therapy, and found out that Pure Lavender essential oil is absolutely fantastic. It is so versatile and highly effective in treating a wide range of ailments.

Lavender essential oil is 100% natural...distilled from the plant's flower and has been used for hundreds of years. It is a natural anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, skin healing accelerator, calmative and insect repellant. I have found it to be unsurpassed in taking the sting out of sunburn, healing pimples and as a tonic for dry skin. Add a few drops to moisturiser for a great all-round skin balm. It is also one of the few essential oils that is safe to apply neat, and safe for children and animals. When purchasing, be sure the label reads "100% Pure essential oil"...because some are diluted and the ones termed "fragrant" oil is not the real macoy.

Lavender Essential oil is relatively cheap to buy...expect to pay about six to twelve australian dollars for a 15ml bottle. And remember it's concentrated..a few drops go a long way! I buy mine from health food shops and pharmacies. There are a few different varieties of Lavender oil you can buy, varying in potency. All genuine oils should be in a dark coloured glass bottle. Store them away from heat and sunlight and they will last for ages.

***If you are pregnant or think there's a chance you might be, or prone to allergies or asthma...consult your doctor before using any essential oils.***

Lavender is especially great for soothing stressed animals (and people!) Place a few drops on your temples and/or pillow and I GUARANTEE you will have the best nights sleep ever! I also use it to sedate (relax) my animals for travelling and ones prone to carsickness by putting a couple of drops on the back of their neck.

Now on another topic...When my girls occasionally squabble or get testy over litters sometimes one ends up with a bitten paw or nose, which will quickly become inflamed and infected if left untreated.

My routine "treatment" for minor cuts is simple, effective and I notice great improvement and healing within days. Firstly, I rinse the wound under slow running water to remove any dirt or nasties. Then I dry the area and apply a dab of undiluted pure lavender essential oil...around, but not in, the cut/injury. After this I prepare a tepid (room temperature) salt and water soak, which can be applied with a cotton ball or if it's a paw, soak in a little cup. After this I dry off again and apply a dab of betadine (iodine). This works wonders for infections and the lavender not only heals, but calms ratty as well! Then I pack the little pet off back to cage and give him/her a little treat for their injured pride.

Of course, then you have to give everyone a treat at the same time to avoid jealousy! Those treat-sensitive noses don't miss a thing!

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